It’s squash season and my favourite time of the year, not least for all the curries and other comfort food of autumn. Today’s Rajasthani stir-fry is one I cook often, and the combination of ginger, chilli and jaggery lends it a lovely balance of flavour. The biryani, meanwhile, is packed with whole spices, basmati and ghee, which give so much more flavour to the layers of rice and vegetables.
现在是南瓜季，也是我最喜欢的季节，尤其是秋天的各种咖喱和其他舒适美食。今天的拉贾斯坦炒菜是我经常做的，姜、辣椒和糖蜜的结合给它带来了美味的平衡。与此同时，比拉尼饭则充满了整粒香料、巴斯马蒂米和黄油，这给米饭和蔬菜的层次增添了更多的风味。
National curry week starts on October 6, so what better way to mark the occasion than with a rich, warming, all-in-one-pot biryani? If you like, make the vegetable curry element in advance and layer everything on the day you want to serve.
国家咖喱周从 10 月 6 日开始，那么还有什么比一顿丰盛、暖和、一锅出的大比拉尼饭更能庆祝这个场合呢？如果你愿意，可以在你想上菜的那天提前做好蔬菜咖喱部分，然后将所有食材分层摆放。
Prep 20 min 准备时间 20 分钟
Cook 2 hr 烹饪 2 小时
Serves 4 供 4 人食用
For the squash and mushroom gravy
用于南瓜和蘑菇酱
4 tbsp ghee, or butter
4 汤匙黄油或黄油
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 茶匙孜然籽
2 dried bay leaves
2 片干月桂叶
4 cloves 4 瓣大蒜
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
450 克白洋葱，去皮并切成薄片
3 green bird’s eye chillies, slit open lengthways
3 个绿色的鸟眼辣椒，纵向切开
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
5 厘米新鲜姜块，去皮切成细条
2 tbsp tomato puree 2 汤匙番茄酱
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or kashmiri chilli powder
1/4 茶匙温和辣椒粉，或卡什米尔辣椒粉
1 tsp ground turmeric 1 茶匙姜黄粉
2 tsp coriander powder
2 茶匙芫荽粉
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
1 大勺希腊酸奶
300g butternut squash flesh, cut into bite-sized pieces
300 克胡瓜肉，切成一口大小的块
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved if on the large side
300 克白蘑菇，洗净，如果个头较大则对半切开
400ml vegetable stock, or water
400 毫升蔬菜高汤，或水
Salt, to taste 盐，适量
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish
2 汤匙切碎的香菜，用于装饰
For the rice 为米饭
200g basmati rice 200 克印度香米
2 bay leaves 2 片月桂叶
4 green cardamom pods
4 个绿豆蔻豆荚
A pinch of salt
少许盐
For the biryani 为咖喱羊肉
2 tbsp melted ghee 2 汤匙融化的黄油
1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in 3 tbsp warm water
1 小撮藏红花，浸泡在 3 汤匙温水中
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
1¼厘米新鲜姜，去皮切成细条
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
3 汤匙切碎的新鲜薄荷叶
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 茶匙肉豆蔻粉
1 tsp garam masala
1 茶匙咖喱粉
Raita and salad, to serve
酸奶和沙拉，供食用
First make the gravy. Melt the ghee in a large, heavy-based saucepan on a medium heat, add the cumin seeds, bay leaves and cloves, and fry for a few seconds. Stir in the sliced onion and cook, stirring often, for 30-35 minutes, until softened. When the onions start to brown, transfer half of them to a plate and set aside (you’ll use them later during the layering).
首先制作肉汁。在中火上，在一个大而重底的锅中融化黄油，加入孜然籽、月桂叶和丁香，炒几秒钟。加入切好的洋葱，经常搅拌，煮 30-35 分钟，直到变软。当洋葱开始变棕色时，将其中一半转移到盘子上，放一边（稍后分层时使用）。
Add the green chillies and ginger to the remaining onions in the pan, fry for a minute, then stir in the tomato puree, chilli powder, turmeric and coriander powder, and fry for a minute. Turn down to a low heat, stir in the yoghurt and cook for two minutes.
在锅中剩余的洋葱中加入青辣椒和姜，炒一分钟，然后加入番茄酱、辣椒粉、姜黄粉和香菜粉，再炒一分钟。调至小火，加入酸奶，煮两分钟。
Add the squash and mushrooms, stir to coat in the spices, then fry for three minutes. Add the stock or water, and season to taste. Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat, cover and simmer for 18-20 minutes, stirring once halfway to make sure nothing’s stuck to the bottom of the pan. Garnish with coriander, then take off the heat.
加入南瓜和蘑菇，搅拌使香料均匀覆盖，然后炒三分钟。加入高汤或水，调味。煮沸后，调小火，盖上锅盖，煨煮 18-20 分钟，中途搅拌一次，确保锅底没有粘锅。撒上香菜，然后离火。
Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Wash the rice, then put it in a saucepan with a litre of water and the bay leaves, cardamom and salt. Bring to a boil, cook for 10-12 minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then drain.
将烤箱预热至 200°C（风扇预热至 180°C）/390°F/煤气 6。洗净大米，然后将其放入一升水和月桂叶、肉豆蔻和盐的锅中。煮沸后，煮 10-12 分钟，煮至四分之三熟，然后沥干。
To build the biryani, put a tablespoon of melted ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a tight-fitting lid. Ladle in half the vegetable curry, then top that with half the rice. Add half the saffron water, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and garam masala, then add the reserved fried onions. Top with the remaining vegetable curry, then spoon on the remaining rice. Top with the remaining ghee, saffron water, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and garam masala.
为了制作咖喱饭，将一汤匙融化的黄油放入一个带紧闭盖子的烤盘中。倒入一半的蔬菜咖喱，然后在上面铺上另一半大米。加入一半的藏红花水、姜、薄荷叶、磨碎的肉豆蔻和咖喱粉，然后加入预留的炸洋葱。在上面铺上剩余的蔬菜咖喱，然后舀上剩余的大米。在上面撒上剩余的黄油、藏红花水、姜、薄荷叶、磨碎的肉豆蔻和咖喱粉。
Cover with baking paper, cover with the lid, then bake on the middle shelf of the oven for 15-17 minutes, so all the flavours soak into the rice. Take out of the oven, leave to rest, still covered, for 10 minutes, then lift off the lid and serve with raita and salad.
用烘焙纸覆盖，盖上盖子，然后将烤盘放在烤箱中间层烤 15-17 分钟，让所有风味都渗入大米中。从烤箱中取出，仍然盖上盖子，静置 10 分钟，然后揭开盖子，搭配酸奶和沙拉一起食用。
Rajasthani achari kaddu (squash with pickling spices stir-fry)
拉贾斯坦尼醋香南瓜（用腌制香料炒制的南瓜）
The Indian word “achari” refers to flavouring a dish using pickling spices, and the mix includes mustard seeds, fennel, fenugreek, cumin, asafoetida and nigella, but they’re not used only in pickles. The blend also features in all manner of curries and stir-fries, such as this one.
印度语中的“achari”指的是用腌制香料调味菜肴，这种混合物包括芥末籽、茴香、鹰嘴豆、孜然、阿魏和黑种草子，但它们不仅仅用于腌制食品。这种混合物也出现在各种咖喱和炒菜中，比如这道菜。
Prep 10 min 准备 10 分钟
Cook 30 min 烹饪 30 分钟
Serves 4 4 人份
1 tsp black mustard seeds
1 茶匙黑芥子
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1/2 茶匙芝麻菜籽
1 tsp fennel seeds
1 茶匙茴香籽
4 tbsp vegetable oil
4 汤匙植物油
1 pinch asafoetida 1 点儿阿魏粉
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
5 厘米新鲜姜，去皮切碎
750g squash flesh, or pumpkin, cut into bite-sized pieces
750 克南瓜肉或南瓜，切成一口大小的块
1 tsp mild chilli powder
1 茶匙温和辣椒粉
½ tsp ground turmeric
半茶匙磨碎的姜黄粉
Salt, to taste 适量盐
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
1 汤匙糖蜜或深棕色糖
2 tsp dried mango powder
2 茶匙干芒果粉
Put the mustard seeds, fenugreek and fennel seeds in a mortar, crush coarsely, then set aside. Put the oil in a large frying pan or kadhai on a medium heat. Add the crushed spices and the asafoetida, and fry, stirring, for a few seconds. Add the ginger, fry for a minute, then stir in the squash, chilli and turmeric, and fry, stirring, for five minutes more.
将芥末籽、芫荽籽和小茴香籽放入研钵中，粗略地捣碎，然后放一边。在大煎锅或印度煎锅中，用中火加热油。加入捣碎的香料和乳香，翻炒几秒钟。加入姜，炒一分钟，然后加入南瓜、辣椒和姜黄，继续翻炒五分钟。
Add 50ml water to the pot, season with salt to taste and bring to a boil. Cover, turn down the heat, and leave to cook for 20 minutes, stirring once halfway through. Add the jaggery, crushing some of the pieces a little, then add the mango powder, stir well and serve warm with chapatis or naan.
向锅中加入 50 毫升水，加盐调味至适口，煮沸。盖上锅盖，调低火力，煮 20 分钟，中途搅拌一次。加入红糖，轻轻捣碎一些块状物，然后加入芒果粉，搅拌均匀，热着与烤饼或印度烤饼一起食用。
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Maunika Gowardhan is a cook and food writer. Her most recent book, Tandoori Home Cooking: Over 70 Classic Indian Tandoori Recipes to Cook at Home, is published by Hardie Grant at £25. To order a copy for £22.50, go to guardianbookshop.com
毛尼卡·戈尔达汉是一位厨师和美食作家。她最新的著作《坦度里家庭烹饪：在家烹饪的 70 多款经典印度坦度里食谱》，由哈迪·格兰特出版社出版，售价 25 英镑。欲以 22.50 英镑订购一本，请访问 guardianbookshop.com。
